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greenwich
village
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best way to see the Village is to walk, and by far the best place to
start is its natural center, Washington
Square, commemorated as a novel title by Henry James and
haunted by most of the Village's illustrious past names. It is not
an elegant-looking place – too large to be a square, too small to
be a park. But it does retain its northern edging of red-brick row
houses – the "solid, honorable dwellings" of Henry
James's novel and now home to mostly administrative offices for New
York University (NYU) – and more imposingly, Stanford White's
famous Triumphal Arch, built in 1892 to commemorate the
centenary of George Washington's inauguration as president.
Marcel Duchamp, along
with an agitator going by the name of "Woe," climbed to
the top of the arch in 1913 to declare the Free Republic of
Greenwich Village. Don't plan on repeating that stunt; the arch has
been cordoned off around its perimeter in an effort to ward off
graffiti. James wouldn't, however, recognize the south side of the
square now: only the fussy Judson
Memorial Church stands out amid a messy blend of modern
architecture, its interior given over these days to a mixture of
theater and local focus for a wide array of community-based
programs.
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Most importantly,
though, Washington Square remains the symbolic heart of the Village
and its radicalism – so much so that when Robert Moses, the
tarmacker of great chunks of New York City, wanted to plow a
four-lane roadway through the center of the square there was a storm
of protest that resulted not only in the stopping of the road but
also the banning of all traffic from the park, then used as a
turnaround point by buses. And that's how it has stayed ever since,
notwithstanding some battles in the 1960s when the authorities
decided to purge the park of folk singers and nearly had a riot on
their hands. Today, in a recent and (mildly) successful effort to
clear drug dealers from the park, the city has installed hidden
security cameras, and undercover cops now mingle inconspicuously
with the crowds. The park itself is closed after 11pm, a curfew that
is strictly enforced. But, frankly, nothing's likely to happen to
you in this part of town and if things look at all hazardous it's
just as easy to walk around. As soon as the weather gets warm, the
park becomes running track, performance venue, chess tournament and
social club, boiling over with life as skateboards flip, dogs run,
and acoustic guitar notes crash through the urgent cries of
performers calling for the crowd's attention. At times like this,
there's no better square in the city.
North
of Washington Square
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the eastern end of Christopher Street is another of those
car-buzzing, life-risking Village junctions where Sixth Avenue is
met by Greenwich Avenue, one of the neighborhood's major
shopping streets. Hover for a while at the romantic Victorian bulk
of the Jefferson Market
Courthouse, voted fifth most beautiful building in America
in 1885, and built with all the characteristic vigor of the age. It
hasn't actually served as a courthouse since 1946; indeed, at one
time – like so many buildings in this city – it was branded for
demolition. It was saved thanks to the efforts of a few determined
Villagers, including e. e. cummings, and now lives out its days as
the local library. Walk around behind for a better look, perhaps
pondering for a moment on the fact that the adjacent well-tended
allotment was, until 1971, the Women's House of Detention, a
prison known for its abysmal conditions and numbering Angela Davis
among its inmates. Look out, also, for Patchin
Place, a tiny mews whose neat, gray rowhouses are yet
another Village literary landmark, home to the reclusive Djuna
Barnes for more than forty years. Barnes's longtime neighbor e. e.
cummings used to call her "Just to see if she was still
alive." Patchin Place was at various times also home to Marlon
Brando, John Masefield, the ubiquitous Dreiser and O'Neill, and John
Reed (who wrote Ten Days that Shook the World here).
Across the road, Balducci's
forms a Downtown alternative to its Upper West Side rival, Zabar's,
its stomach-tingling smells pricey but hard to resist. Nearby, Bigelow's
Pharmacy is possibly the city's oldest drugstore and
apparently little has changed; and, south a block and left, West
8th Street is an occasionally rewarding strip of brash shoe
stores, tattoo parlors, and cut-price clothes stores. Up West
10th Street are some of the best-preserved early
nineteenth-century townhouses in the Village, and one of particular
interest at no. 18. The
facade of this house, which juts into the street, had to be rebuilt
after the terrorist Weathermen had been using the house as a bomb
factory and one of their devices exploded. Three of the group were
killed in the blast, but two others escaped and remained on the run
until a few years ago.
For anyone not yet
sated on architecture, a couple of imposing churches are to be found
by following 10th Street down as far as the Fifth Avenue stretch of
the Village, where the neighborhood's low-slung residential streets
lead to some eminently desirable apartment buildings. On the corner
stands the nineteenth-century Church
of the Ascension, a small, light church built by Richard
Upjohn (the Trinity Church architect), later redecorated by Stanford
White and recently restored outside and in, where a gracefully toned
La Farge altarpiece and some fine stained glass are on view. A block
away, Joseph Wells's bulky, chocolatey-brown Gothic revival First
Presbyterian Church is decidedly less attractive than
Upjohn's structure, less soaring, heavier, and in every way more
sober, with a tower said to have been modeled on the one at Magdalen
College Oxford, England. To look inside, you need to enter through
the discreetly added Church House (ring the bell for attention if
the door's locked). Afterwards you're just a few steps away from the
pin-neat prettiness of Washington
Mews.

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Click here
for the Greenwich Village walking tours. |
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Greenwich Village’s
known history dates back to the 16th century, when it was a marshland
called Sapokanikan by Native Americans who camped and fished in the
meandering trout stream known as Minetta Brook. By the 1630s Dutch
settlers had cleared pastures and planted crops in this area, which they
referred to as Noortwyck. Freed African slaves brought here by the Dutch
also farmed parcels of land in this sparsely populated district. After the
English conquest of New Amsterdam in 1664, the settlement evolved into a
country hamlet, first designated Grin’wich in 1713 Common Council
records. Sir Peter Warren, Vice-Admiral of the British Navy and commander
of its New York fleet, amassed a vast land tract here in the 1740s, as did
Captain Robert Richard Randall.
Greenwich Village survived
the American Revolution as a pastoral suburb. Commercial activity after
the war was centered near the edge of the Hudson River, where there were
fresh produce markets. In the 1780s the city purchased a parcel of eight
acres for use as a potter’s field and public gallows, at what is now
Washington Square Park. The comparative seclusion of the area began to
erode when outbreaks of yellow fever and cholera beset the core city in
1799, 1803, 1805, and 1821. Those seeking refuge fled north to the
wholesome backwaters of the West Village, triggering the construction of
temporary housing as well as banking offices. During an especially
virulent epidemic in 1822 many who had intended to remain in the area only
temporarily chose instead to settle there permanently, increasing the
population fourfold between 1825 and 1840 and spurring the development of
markets and businesses. Shrewd speculators subdivided farms, leveled
hills, rerouted Minetta Brook, and undertook landfill projects. Blocks of
neat rowhouses built in the prevailing Federal style soon accommodated
middle-class merchants and tradesmen. From 1820 a more affluent
residential development emerged to the east near Broadway. Another
fashionable area developed around Washington Square Park, at the foot of
Fifth Avenue. The potter’s field was closed in 1826 and transformed
successively into a military parade grounds and a spacious pedestrian
commons. On the perimeter of Washington Square, stately red brick
townhouses built in the Greek Revival style drew wealthy members of
society. The crowning addition to this urban plaza was the triumphal
marble arch designed by Stanford White. Erected in 1892 and funded through
private subscription, it replaced a temporary portal raised to commemorate
the centenary (1889) of George Washington’s inauguration as President.
During the early 19th
century new institutions served the spiritual, educational, and cultural
needs of the growing community. Religious denominations commissioned
buildings with elaborate decorative schemes, New York University grew on
the east side of Washington Square from 1836, and the neighborhood soon
became the site of art clubs, private picture galleries, learned
societies, literary salons, and libraries. Fine hotels, shopping emporia,
and theaters also proliferated. The character of the neighborhood changed
markedly at the close of the century when German, Irish, and Italian
immigrants found work in the breweries, warehouses, and coal and lumber
yards near the Hudson River and in the manufacturing lofts in the
southeast corner of the neighborhood. Older residences were subdivided
into cheap lodging hotels and multiple-family dwellings, or demolished for
higher-density tenements. Plummeting real estate values prompted nervous
retailers and genteel property owners to move uptown.
The Village at the turn of
the 20th century was quaintly picturesque and ethnically diverse. By the
start of World War I it was widely known as a bohemian enclave with
secluded side streets, low rents, and a tolerance for radicalism and
nonconformity. Attention became increasingly focused on artists and
writers noted for their boldly innovative work: books and irreverent
"little magazines" were published by small presses, art
galleries exhibited the work of the avant-garde, and experimental theater
companies blatantly ignored the financial considerations of Broadway. A
growing awareness of its idiosyncrasies helped to make Greenwich Village
an attraction for tourists. Entrepreneurs provided amusements ranging from
evenings in artists’ studios to bacchanalian costume balls. During
Prohibition local speakeasies attracted uptown patrons. Decrepit rowhouses
were remodeled into "artistic flats" for the well-to-do, and in
1926 luxury apartment towers appeared at the northern edge of Washington
Square. The stock market crash of 1929 halted the momentum of new
construction.
During the 1930’s,
galleries and collectors promoted the cause of contemporary art. Sculptor
Gertrude Whitney Vanderbilt opened a museum dedicated to modern American
art on West 8th Street, now the New York Studio School. The New School for
Social Research, on West 12th Street since the late 1920s, inaugurated the
"University in Exile" in 1934.
The Village had become the
center for the "beat movement" by the 1950s, with galleries
along 8th Street, coffee houses on MacDougal Street, and storefront
theaters on Bleecker Street. "Happenings" and other unorthodox
artistic, theatrical and musical events were staged at the Judson Memorial
Church. During the 1960s a homosexual community formed around Christopher
Street; in 1969 a confrontation by the police culminated in a riot known
as the Stonewall Rebellion, regarded as the beginning of the nationwide
movement for gay and lesbian rights. Greenwich Village became a rallying
place for antiwar protesters in the 1970s and for activity mobilized by
the AIDS epidemic in the 1980s.
The historic preservation
movement in Greenwich Village was begun nearly fifty years ago. In the
1940s, urban renewal efforts on Washington Square South had altered the
physical character of the neighborhood by demolishing many 19th century
structures. Local resentment of these development initiatives inspired a
preservation movement and helped to defeat a plan by Robert Moses to carve
a roadway through Washington Square. Efforts by preservationists were
strengthened by "downzoning" changes in 1961 and by the
designation in 1969 of a contiguous Greenwich Village Historic District
that protected more than 2,035 structures and encompassed one-third of the
Village. Currently there is a movement to protect the waterfront, exempted
from earlier landmark designation. This local preservation initiative is
still in progress.
Edited excerpt from pages
506-509 of The Encyclopedia of New York City edited by Kenneth T.
Jackson, ©1995, Yale University. Reproduced by permission of Yale
University Press.
Greenwich Village Society
for Historic Preservation
232 East 11th Street
New York, NY 10003
212.475.9585
gvshp@gvshp.org
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Click here
for some notes on the Hudson River Park walk. |
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