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notes
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Described at the time
as "the highest building on Manhattan Island," but the spire was
shorter than that on Trinity Church (285 feet). While metal columns and
beams supported interior floors, the exterior walls were masonry.
Downtown was the world’s media capital
Sometimes I forget that New York began
Downtown, that once there was no Upper East Side or Upper West Side but
only the East Side and West Side, that a thriving metropolis of 125,000
people was pressed below Canal St. while to the north lay forests and
meadows, stream, swamps, and country homes for the wealthy. The
towers of the Brooklyn Bridge appear old enough to have been built by the
slaves of a pharaoh, but I forget sometimes that people once lived and
worked where the ramps to the bridge are now, that those ramps replaced
what once was the tallest building in the world, the New York World
Building, completed in 1890 and from where the World was published. Under
the ownership of Joseph Pulitzer, it was one of the most important papers
in the city.
Nearby, near Franklin Square —renamed
from St. George’s Square in 1817 to honor Ben Franklin whose headstone
said simply “Printer” — stood the House of Harper’s that published
Harper’s Weekly and Harper’s Magazine. It makes me think community
papers like this one follow a tradition in New York journalism nearly as
old as the city itself.
Newspapers were published Downtown long
before the Revolution, before New York was an American city. In 1725,
William Bradford (of Plymouth Plantation) published the New York Gazette
at 81 Pearl St. He is buried in Trinity Cemetery. Not far away on Broad
St., between Water and Front, the New York Journal, with John Holt as
editor, was a strong voice for these colonies’ independence. At 53
Liberty St., the Evening Post was published for thirty years, and Samuel
Loundon’s American Magazine had its offices at 2 Broad St. Around the
corner, at 113 William St., the author of the first truly American
literature was born in 1783. It was Washington Irving who wrote the
“Knickerbocker Tales,” the first history (however fictional) of New
York, a place he called “Gotham,” and when Rip Van Winkle woke from
his long nap he found more than his beard grown long and his flintlock
rusted; he found that he lived in a new, free country where Irving
published his first articles in the Morning Chronicle at Pine St. off
Pearl.
Herman Melville was born at 6 Pearl St. in
1819, and though Ishmael shipped on the Pequod out of Nantucket, the
imagination of the author of the greatest American novel of the 19th
century was first drawn to the sea where elegant, mighty ships sailed
through the distant Narrows toward Battery Park. Back then, the Morning
Post, run by Horace Greeley, was the first low-priced daily in town. There
was a time when, along Park Row where it joins Centre St. (still spelled
the English way since the city was theirs when that street was laid) it
was an area known as “Newspaper Row.”
From 1840 until the beginning of the next
century, nineteen different newspapers were published along those few
blocks when the city’s population was merely a sixth of what it is now.
And just a block from there is Nassau St.,
the most important street in the history of New York journalism. The
Mirror appeared at 107 Nassau in 1823, and it had a long, successful
career even after one of its editors, Nathaniel Wills, moved a few doors
down to 118 Nassau where, with Henry Jarvis Raymond, he founded the New
York Times. The Ledger, once at Spruce and Williams, moved next door to
119 Nassau. The New Yorker was first published at 127 Nassau, and at 142
Nassau the human rights activist Lydia Maria Child published her
influential anti-slavery articles from 1841 until 1849 when the
neighborhood was known, appropriately, as “Printing House Row.”
Around the corner at William St., William
Randolph Hearst published New York America and the New York Evening
Journal. The Morning Advertiser, the Mail and Express, and The Recorder
all appeared in the area, while the nearby Globe and Commercial Advertiser
had been publishing as early as 1797. The Sun Building — still standing
on Chambers St. – published the Sun, though not the present paper with
the same name and logo. It became the first penny paper in town, published
at 177 Nassau in 1868 and for the next fifty years, and when editor
Benjamin H. Day sent out boys to sell the Sun to whomever would buy it,
the newsboy was born.
The beautiful Tribune Building stood
nearby, home to the Tribune, one of the most important papers in the city
and the first publishers of journalists like Carl Schurz, William Dean
Howells, Henry James, and Margaret Fuller. But the Tribune tower was torn
down in 1975, and like the old Penn Station, we lost a treasure.
The New World Building, once known as the
“World Tower,” was demolished in the early 1950s to make way for new
approaches to the Brooklyn Bridge. Where “Newspaper Row” once thrived
is now the campus of Pace University, and though the present always
replaces the past and too often we forget what came before, one building
remains as a testament and monument to New York’s great newspaper
history.
In 1801, Alexander Hamilton published the
Evening Post, later edited by William Cullen Bryant from where he made the
first cries for park space amid the visionary, merciless plan for
Manhattan’s grid. Eventually, his editorials led to Central Park. After
that, the Post moved to the recently completed Garrison Building at 20
Vesey St. in 1907, and though the paper published there only for another
twenty years, the building still incarnates New York’s journalistic
past. The spandrels of this building display well-known printers of the
16th and 17th centuries, and statues on the ninth floor preserve “The
Four Periods of Publicity”: the Spoken Word, the Written Word, the
Printed Word, and the Newspaper. The building may not stand forever, but
the tradition of New York journalism lives in the small papers still
thriving in what was once the true center of our city. |